A major part of Addis Ababa’s music renaissance is the new live music offerings. Once almost a hopeless affair, there is now a decent selection in venue, music genre and general feel to a night out. But unfortunately for the night owls and music lovers, it can be a confusing experience to find what you’re looking for. Well, ACX has taken the trouble of hitting some of the best spots for you to compose this “Guide to Live Music”.
A Jazzy Affair
Jazz music may be said to dominate the scene, and rightly so. Lending itself to the widest array of venues, and playing a special role in what is uniquely ‘quality Ethiopian music’, this genre is represented in nightspots all over the city and is played for audiences of all kinds.
What may be considered the big three in live music, Coffee House, Alize and La Bateau Ivre , all offer their own distinct feels but are sure not to disappoint.
Alize
While the latter two are relatively new on the scene, Coffee House (Sidist Kilo) may be said to be a bastion of jazz that has stood the test of time. With its special Thursday night jazz session, you are bound to get something new as its more a free form jam with the opportunity for whoever is around to get up on stage. And with an inviting atmosphere, good food and drinks, as well as the possibility of talking to long-time drummer Abiy Ford, it is an attractive option.
Coffee House as a trustworthy option is facing stiff competition from the hottest addition to the scene, Club Alize , at the end of Bole Road by the airport. With the star studded Addis Acoustic Renaissance Group every Thursday night including, Girum Mezmur (guitar/arrangement), Henock Temesgen (double bass), Natnael Tessema (percussion), Ayele Mamo (mandolin), Shaleka Melaku Tegegn (accordion), Dawit Ferew (clarinet) and Mesale Legesse (percussion), it makes this day possibly Addis’ hottest. The Addis Acoustic Renaissance Group is ready to take you back to the 50s and 60s Ethiopian style improvised in a jazzy flavor.
But Club Alize offers so much more. With one of the most stylish interiors and a drink for every palate, it is easy to spend hours kicking back and listening or hitting the ample dance floor. And Thursday is not the only night to visit. Wednesdays feature the most modern of azmaris, Fridays get a mix of Soul and Motown, Saturdays are a mix of DJ spice, and Sunday is an acoustic treat with Munit and Jorg.
From the list, La Bateau Ivre (Kazanchis) is the most farenjified with its Monday night jazz free for all. The wooden bar/stage is sure to be packed with a raucous crowd but the outside wooded area is a nice respite and possibly the most open feeling at any of the capital’s night spots.
The most upmarket of jazz offerings is Sheraton’s Gas Light. Thursday nights are known to attract the biggest crowds with a mixture of foreign and Ethiopian music. However, it is the first Wednesday of every month that represents a special treat when Girum Mezmur and his crew take the spotlight, often joined by other surprise guests, in the classiest of settings.
If you see a long line of at the end of Bole Road near the airport on Friday night then you should follow them to Harlem Jazz for a number of big names could be rocking the joint on any given night. One of the favorites to frequent this venue is US-native K’Ayln. But with appearances from some of the other jazz stars mentioned above there is certainly variety. Tuesday and Sundays are big nights and Saturday’s usually feature some reggae.
More Than Clubs
Many of Addis’ clubs that are normally the spots for dance floors and lounge style enjoyment open up their (sometimes quite well appointed) stages for the live musicians to entertain. These offerings should not be overlooked as they often offer some of the best in live music choice. It’s just a matter of knowing the spot and the day/time. Fortunately, we have taken the hassle out of it.
Zeritu performing at Platinum
Platinum , is a luxury club rivaling Gas Light for class. Inside Yoly Building is one of most stylish places for late night clubbing. But music lovers will also be pleased with the unique (reminiscent of a chíc living room) live music offerings that supplement a hot club scene. At the other extreme of age is Club Illusion which has been serving up music for two decades. With its recent reopening this year after renovations, this is one of the best of many places to catch the Mehari Brothers (Wednesday night). If you are confident about your singing ability and style, then you should check out Thursday’s kareoke night. Or if it it’s the club scene you are in the mood for, Friday is warmed up by Dj Wish, Dj Anti and YB with their Pop and R&B music choices.
Maybe you missed the Mehari Brother’s at Club Illusion on Wednesday? No worries; check them out at Henry Africa’s Garden on Thursday night. With comfy couches and a smooth atmosphere this is another comfortable nightspot. More known for its long bar and specialty cocktails, Vibration (in Aberus Complex) can also surprise with live music at times. They are happy to give the latest updates on their schedule, or you can simply show up at a place that is nice for a comfortable chit chat and hope for the best.
Shewandagn Hailu and Eyob Mekonen can be reliably found at Fahrenheit (next to Edna Mall) on Thursday nights though you may have to wait a little later for their appearance. But it’s okay; the two lounge sections are comfortable enough and light snacks can tide you over. But for hot contemporary artists hit Gazebo seven days a week on Meskel Flower Road. Madingo Afework is often leading the stage with others who frequent this intimate setting.
While they may not necessarily cater to the most discerning ears, other possibilities for live music in the city include Piano Bar and Select where you are more likely to see 2-3 person ‘bands’ (sometimes even just one) accompanying vocalists of varying talent.
Need More Traditional Feel?
Ethiopia 2000, Asqual and Yod Abyssinia are the backbone of the classy cultural spots more known for food but reliably playing traditional music. Yod Abyssinia stands out for its cultural dancing and singing program that features authentically dressed professionals making a musical tour of the country’s traditions. Ethiopia 2000 and Yod Abyssinia are located on Mickey Leyland Road while Asqual is across from Friendship Building on Bole Road.
The azmari scene is hottest in Kazanchis with Fendeka, Yewedal and Tutuyae Duduyae being some of the big names. Shows usually began at 10pm and the variety in the capital seems to be a result of drawing talent from some of the traditional regional hotspots.
A Relaxing Break
If all the live music and DJ offerings seem too much and you would rather just have a relaxing evening to kick back in a lounge, don’t sweat it, Addis has you covered.
Black Rose (Boston Partners Building) and Champions (Bole Olympia next to Delux Furniture) stand out from a longer list for their unique atmospheres. Black Rose will welcome you with calm, soulful music, with the most velvet seating to be found in cozy atmosphere. With ample drink choices and a nice Friday happy hour it is a reliable source of relaxation. At Champions you can enjoy both the bar at the front and the Arabic Lounge located in the back. Try the Arabic lounge for comfortable ‘Medjleys’ with lush cushions in a sheer curtains where waiters dressed to standard will attend your shisha. Another very swanky lounge but with a tribute to entertainment hotspots long gone from the scene is Wube Bereha in the Edna Mall building. Superbly decorated and tending to be frequented by the usual suspects of expats, Diaspora and the upscale socialites of town, you can reliably find good food and drinks at this sophisticated hangout. Finally, the original and ultra smooth Sheba Lounge in the Hilton should not be overlooked for a laid back evening of conversation, exceptional ambience and the sounds of a smooth pianist playing old favorites so authentically, you would be forgiven for thinking a CD was playing. ::
